Research on the interdependence of structure and comfort characteristics of textiles for traditional shirts

Abstract

European cultural strategies focused on unity through diversity, valuing multiculturalism and intangible and material cultural heritage involve a greater focus on the traditional costume. The aspiration of Romania and the Republic of Moldova to include the traditional shirt with altita (element of the upper part of the sleeve) in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity is another argument that determined the necessity of this study. Just as the traditional costume is a subject of transnational interest, several communities have been initiated and preoccupied with the revitalization of the traditional costume both in Romania and the Republic of Moldova. The objective of revitalization and voluntary reintegration of the pieces of the traditional costume in the circuit of the current clothing products as an element of national identity entails several necessary topics to be solved. One of these is related to the identification of the textiles from which one of the important pieces of the suit-shirt is to be made. It must be as faithful as possible from the aspect of aesthetic characteristics, but also the functional, and technological ones. Because the traditional shirt presents a secular codified history with symbolic connotations of great identity importance, everything that determines it is chosen with great care. To ensure the irreproachable fidelity of the traditional shirts made today with the historical ones, the creators strive to choose for them homemade cloth obtained by hand through the same traditional technologies, aspiring to ensure the same characteristics of the products. The structural characteristics of the handmade fabrics influence the aesthetics of the integral product, especially the quality of the aesthetics of the reproduction of the symbolic ornamental elements that form the structural-compositional ensemble of the reproduced history. At the same time, they determine the comfort characteristics of textiles. The work presents the results of the study of the interdependence of the characteristics of structure and comfort as being in direct dependence. The study was done within the State Project 20.80009.0807.17. “Education for the revitalization of the national cultural heritage through traditional processing technologies used in the Republic of Moldova in the context of multiculturalism, diversity and European integration”, running at the Technical University of Moldova.